Climbing in the Tetons: A 3-Day Guided Climb in Grand Teton National Park
Attempting the Grand: A 3-Day Guided Climb in the Tetons
Quick Stats:
Location: Grand Teton National Park, WY
Route: The Enclosure from Lower Saddle
Duration: 3 days, 2 nights
Elevation Gain: ~5,000 ft
Summit: 13,285 ft (The Enclosure)
Guide Service: Exum Mountain Guides
Intro
Ten months of planning, a run in with Patagonia's founder, Yvon Chouinard, at the airport, and a lot of motivation to summit the Grand. Our team, set off for a three day guided adventure into Grand Teton National Park. What we got was a crash course in alpine climbing, altitude challenges, and the raw beauty of the Teton Range.
Day 0 – Jackson Arrival and a Taste of Climbing History
I landed in Jackson Hole and, of all people, bumped into Yvon Chouinard at the airport. The founder of Patagonia, just standing there with his luggage. I said a quick hello, he grunted and we went our separate ways. It was an unreal way to kick things off because he was one of my inspirations to do this climb in the first place. Once my buddy, JP, arrived in Jackson from LA, we grabbed our rental car and cruised toward the Climbers Ranch, a legendary place to stay prior to adventuring into the mountains. On the way, we spotted deer and a fox - reminders that Wyoming still holds some of the wildest land in all the US.
Wyoming is home to one of the few nearly intact temperate ecosystems on Earth. Species like wolves, grizzlies, moose, and elk still roam freely, just like they did centuries ago.
That night we bunked in a shared room with a few other climbers. Inside the small common area was a library filled with classic climbing literature and stories of the Teton pioneers and epic first ascents. We flipped through pages of climbing history before crashing early.
Our view from Climbers Ranch
Day 1 – Climbing & Technical Training
The next morning, we met our guide Aaron Dahill at the Exum Mountain Guides lodge. Aaron had just returned from a stint guiding in Europe and spends winters heli-ski guiding in Alaska. Super rad, humble guy. We loaded into a boat and motored across Jenny Lake to a training crag.
Under blue skies, we bouldered and ran through rope systems, gradually working up to trad routes. We climbed three or four different lines, building the foundation for our alpine attempt. I’ve done a good bit of top rope climbing in California but not much trad, so it was both humbling and energizing. I could tell Aaron appreciated that I had some basic rope knowledge - it helped us move faster and more confidently as a team.
Learning the alpine drool rule, an effective technique going downhill on rock
After eight or nine hours of instruction and climbing, Aaron gave us the green light. We passed the test and were ready for the next phase of the challenge: the hike up to the lower saddle. But we’d start that the next day.
Upon making it back to the Exum lodge, we packed our gear and made a quick run into the town of Jackson for snacks and last - minute gear. While checking out, I ran into an old high school friend - someone who now explores the Teton backcountry regularly. it was super cool to catch up with her and get some last minute inspo for what lied ahead!
Day 2 – Heavy Packs, Big Elevation, and the Lower Saddle
We met Aaron (our guide) again at the Exum lodge around 8 a.m. after a quick breakfast and final pack check. We rented approach shoes and ditched some unnecessary layers before setting out on the long trek into the park. Over the course of six miles, we would gain nearly 5,000 feet of elevation to reach our high camp at the Lower Saddle.
Gearing up to hit the trail
The trail wound through switchbacks, boulders, and alpine tundra. As we gained elevation, Aaron pointed out glacial features like lateral moraines in the distance. The hike was strenuous but beautiful. Despite coming from sea level in San Francisco, I felt surprisingly strong. The air got thinner, but the vibes were high.
Check out that moraine in the distance
By evening, we crested the Lower Saddle at ~11,600 feet. From here, we could see shadows stretching over the Jackson valley below. Aaron helps set up our camp for the evening and handed out sleeping bags. Most of the camping gear was set up for us, which was a luxury. As the sun dropped, so did the temperature. We scarfed down dinner and crawled into our bags by 8:30 p.m., alarms set for 3:30 a.m. Early morning ahead!
Beautiful sunset on GTNP
Day 3 – Alpine Start, Altitude Struggles, and The Enclosure Summit
At 3:30 a.m., I woke up ready. JP, not so much. He barely slept and was feeling the effects of altitude - headache, fatigue, nausea, you name it. We gave it some time, made breakfast, and slowly geared up. Once JP got some food in him, he felt better and we decided to push on.
The climb started immediately from camp. The terrain began as class 1 - 2, gradually steepening into class 3 - 4, where we began using hip belays and rope protection. The sun rose behind us, casting warm light on the surrounding mountains. It was surreal. After a while, we were hovering around 12,500 feet.
Fun little fourth class section
That’s when it started to hit me.
I was getting weird visual distortions and a growing sense I may be feeling the effect of altitude sickness, which is not uncommon at these heights. I told Aaron, and he kept a close eye on me. We climbed slower. When we reached the junction to The Enclosure - an alternate summit route slightly shorter and less technical than the Grand - it became obvious this was the call.
A quick break before roping up again
JP and I agreed. We’d go for The Enclosure summit instead of the Grand.
The route was still steep, challenging, and exposed, but we had it in us. Step by step, we made it to the top and summited at about 13,285 feet. The second highest peak in the Teton Range.
The Enclosure gets its name from a stacked stone structure believed to have been built by Indigenous people who summited during vision quests. Standing in that place, halfway between earth and sky, it felt like entering another realm. I was dazed, a bit lightheaded, but buzzing on life. I was pumped to be here!
The Enclosure Summit
We high-fived, took a few photos, and began our descent. We roped up for the steepest sections and eventually made it back to the Lower Saddle. After packing up camp, we began the 5,000 foot descent back to the trailhead.
Each step down brought oxygen, relief, and reflection.
Final Thoughts
This trip reminded me that no matter how much you plan, the mountain decides. The Tetons are rugged, heavy, and beautiful. I can’t wait to visit again soon!
