Trekking the GR651 in France - El Camino: A Section Hike Through A Historical Gem
Join me on a 3-day trek along the GR651 in southwest France, a stunning ~45 mile journey from Figeac to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie. You will learn why this quieter Camino variant offers countryside solitude, local food experiences, and some of the most spectacular villages in France. I was only able to see a section of this magnificent trail but it was truly remarkable and took me back in time!
Introduction: Finding My Way to the GR651
When planning a trek in Europe, the Camino de Santiago is often times the first trail that comes to mind. I’ve been dreaming about doing it for years, but somehow other Euro-adventures always found their way onto my itinerary.
This time, I had about 3-5 days to play with and wanted to maximize my time, while stacking as many epic miles, landscapes, and learnings as possible. With just 48 hours before my flight to France, I landed on the GR651, which is a lesser-known variant of the GR65 Camino route.
I chose this trail for the following reasons:
Countryside Beauty: The GR651 winds through rolling hills, quiet forests, and limestone cliffs - perfect for soaking in rural France.
Solitude & Remoteness: This route is less trafficked than the GR65, which means fewer pilgrims and more “chillness”.
Convenience: The trail passes directly through Saint-Cirq-Lapopie around day 3, which was perfect since my partner was taking a cooking class there and we could meet up for espressos and celebratory drinks upon my arrival!
September was the ideal time to go for me, as the countryside offers cooler weather, fewer crowds, and just enough services open in the villages to make it doable solo - though food and water stops required some planning (and luck).
Day 1: Figeac to Oltarcie (near Espagnac-Sainte-Eulalie)
Distance: ~16 miles | Elevation Gain: ~2,000 ft
Due to the fact I started the adventure in Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, my day started early - I needed to catch the 889 bus to Figeac, the official starting point of my trek. I hadn’t overplanned this trip (in fact, it was almost entirely last-minute), so I was relieved to find that this bus runs reliably for just 2€. If you’re doing this yourself, download the Transit app - it was spot on and made the logistics easy.
The ride into Figeac was beautiful, winding through the countryside and giving me a sense of the terrain I’d soon be walking. Once in town, I immediately booked my night-two gîte and grabbed a very French breakfast, croissants and a baguette, since not much else was open that early. With food in my pack and miles ahead of me, the trek officially began.
Pictures to show highlights:
The ancient walls that shadowed the trail.
This much needed meal got be through the day until dinner. TBH, I had no idea what I order when I did but it turned out great! Check out La Taverne, if you ever find yourself in the area needing a warm meal and a cold beverage.
Learning to quiet down the noise and just follow the white and red blade.
Outside the tiny village of Corn.
Final minutes before reaching Oltarcie, a charming spot just outside Espagnac, as the sun dipped low.
Where I Stayed:
Oltarcie Hotel was an absolute highlight of the trip. You can opt in for breakfast, dinner, and even a takeaway lunch for the next day - a lifesaver when services along the trail are sparse. The meal here was hands-down some of the best food I had in France: local, fresh, and perfectly prepared. After a long day on the trail, sitting down to a communal table with other hikers and sharing a home-cooked meal felt like the perfect way to end the first section.
Day 2: Oltarcie to Orniac (near Cabrerets)
Distance: ~19 miles | Elevation Gain: ~4,000 ft
When I arrived in Figeac the previous morning, I had booked my accommodation for night two - a gîte in Orniac, since options in Marcilhac-sur-Célé were very limited. This meant I would be hiking two sections of the GR651 today, totaling nearly 19 miles with roughly 4,000 feet of climbing.
Even though I was still getting my hiking legs, I was excited for the challenge. After a delicious breakfast at Oltarcie - overlooking a foggy countryside that looked straight out of a painting, I hit the trail around 8 AM.
The Célé Valley had been on my radar for months, and it didn’t disappoint. The path wound along the river, passing ancient farmhouses, medieval hamlets, and towering limestone cliffs. There were moments to slow down and just take in the deep history of this region. This was a part of France where time seemed to move a bit slower.
Pictures below to show some of the highlights:
Hitting the trail after a much needed breakfast. Au revoir, Oltarcie!
Offically made it to the beautiful village of Espagnac.
A solid climb to catch the fog over Espagnac. I caught it right before the morning sun burns it off for the day. I stood there with an older french gentlemen for a moment and all he had to say was “magnificent“. I agreed!
The Cele Valley is full of magic.
The “English Castle“ - Likely built in the 12 Century!
Up and over the ridge brings me to the sweet little village of Saint Sulpice. These castles and homes were built into the side of the mountains. Like nothing I have ever seen before.
Unreal architecture!
After a long decline, I find myself in the heart of Marcilhac. The only place open in town was a small private “members-only” club, which I wandered into, hoping for something to eat. I asked if they were serving food, and the person behind the bar simply said, “only drink.” At this point, I was starving, so I ordered a beer and an espresso but before they would serve me, I had to sign up for a club membership.
After sitting for a while, the hostess came over with a smile and said, “For you, we will make you a meal.” I was stunned but immediately accepted. Not only did they prepare me a plate of food, but they also sent over two beers. There must have been some kind of misunderstanding because I only ordered one, but I wasn’t about to complain. I still had nearly 10 miles and 3,000 feet of climbing ahead of me, and I needed every calorie.
This became one of the highlights of my day and maybe the whole trek. The kindness and generosity of these strangers reminded me of the “Camino spirit” that people talk about: unexpected moments of connection and care when you need them most.
Where I Stayed:
That night, I stayed at Gîte d'Espinières in Orniac, just before Cabrerets. It was a cozy and welcoming stop - quiet, comfortable, and exactly what I needed to reset.
There was a very chill atmosphere about Gîte d'Espinières.
Day 3: Orniac to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie
Distance: ~7.5 miles | Elevation Gain: ~1,400 ft
Knowing how hard I had pushed on the previous day, I decided to slow down and savor Day 3. This final section of the GR651 felt like the perfect sendoff - a mix of quiet forest trails, dramatic limestone cliffs, a bit of rain and some of the most ancient and charming villages in France.
The path wound through the spectacular Célé Valley, a place I had been reading about for a while and was thrilled to finally experience in person. Every bend seemed to reveal another view worth pausing for - whether it was a centuries-old stone hamlet or a cliffside lookout over the river.
The day ended in Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, one of the most beautiful medieval villages in all of France. Arriving there on foot felt deeply rewarding, and the timing was perfect - my partner had just finished her cooking class, and we were able to meet up and celebrate the journey.
This last stretch was nothing short of epic - the perfect finale to three days of hiking, reflecting, and exploring some of France’s best-kept secrets.
Pictures below to show some of the highlights:
Up close and personal with the goats along the countryside.
Beautiful landscape art along the trail.
A casual home within the mountains in Cabrerets.
The stained glass in Cabrerets was an incredible sight to see.
Trekking along the railroad tracks. Getting close to Saint Cirq Lapopie!
The final 20-30 feet of trail before entering the town. A lovely way to complete ~45 miles of walking.
The view just does not get old.
Lessons & Reflections
Solo Trekking: Hiking alone gave me space to slow down and fully immerse myself in the culture and landscape - but it also meant careful planning.
Timing is Key: September was perfect - cool enough for long days but still sunny, and the crowds were gone.
Local Hospitality: Staying at Oltarcie and Gîte d'Espinières made the trek feel connected and warm. These stops turned long days into something truly special.
Practical Tips for Future Trekkers
Navigation: The trail is well-marked with red-and-white GR blazes, but downloading an offline map from Alltrails worked great for me.
Food & Water: Opt for accommodations that include meals. They’re excellent quality and remove the stress of hunting for restaurants after a long day.
Accommodation: Gîtes and B&Bs along the route are small - book ahead in peak season, though in September I had no trouble finding space the day before my stay.
Gear: A light pack (my 55L Hyperlite worked perfectly although a bit of an overkill), good trail shoes (Alta Lone Peak), and a reliable water filter or tablets are musts. I mainly filled up at my hotel before heading out for the day.
Final Thoughts
This three-day trek was exactly the kind of adventure I was looking for - remote trails, rich history, and a rewarding finish in one of the most spectacular villages in all of France. The GR651 might not have the name recognition of the main Camino, but that’s exactly why it shines.
If you’re craving a mix of solitude, challenge, and cultural immersion, this is the perfect European trek to add to your list. Enjoy!
